dogs&cats&more

Dogs of any breed are pregnant for approximately 63 days.

Signs that your dog is pregnant: Her mammary glands get bigger, her abdomen gradually starts getting bigger, and she may act hungrier by about day 30 post-conception.

At that point, you could always find out for sure by having an ultrasound done to see the puppy heartbeats. Or at about 40-45 days post-conception sometimes sooner), you should be able to define how many pups there on by seeing their skeletons on x-ray.

If your dog is pregnant, you want to get her on a high quality puppy food (higher protein)and increase the amount she eats, as this higher protein will help nourish the pups as well. Continue this even while she’s nursing.

Invest in a rectal thermometer (usually only about $5) and start taking her temperature every day starting at about 56/57 days post-conception. You’ll get an idea of what her normal temp is, the range of normal for a dog being 100F to 102.5F.

Once the temperature drops about 2 degrees F and stays there (usually to under 98), your dog is ready to give birth within 24 hours. Birth happens normally around day 63, but a dog can give birth anywhere from day 59-69.

Depending on how many pups are coming determines how long the birthing process takes place, but generally, once contractions start, the first pup should be born within a half hour, and no more than 4 hours between each pup.

Christine, LVT

Insulinomas are malignant tumors that for unknown reasons form on the pancreas. Often hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) and symptoms of this (seizures, weakness) are the first signs there is a problem. It is most often diagnosed in middle aged dogs, of any breed or sex. Cats rarely have insulinomas.

Blood tests alone can fairly accurately diagnose an insulinoma. What you would look for on bloodwork is normal to high insulin levels that occur while there is a low blood sugar level. If there were no insulinoma, then hypoglycemia was due to something else instead, and insulin levels would also be low on blood results.

Often an abdominal ultrasound is suggested when an insulin is diagnosed. Insulinomas are usually too tiny to see on a radiograph, and difficult to spot on ultrasound, though sometimes they can be seen. The ultrasound, however, can help view surrounding lymph nodes as well as the liver, which are common places for an insulinoma to spread. The chest cavity may also be a place for metastasis, and that is best determined by thoracic x-ray. Knowing if metastasis has occurred is the strongest factor in determining quantity of life that is left.

Insulinomas can sometimes be treated by removing the tumor, along with medications once symptoms return. Otherwise, prednisone (steroid) is indeed the way to go, often along with other medications like Diazoxide and Somatostatin. Diet changes are often implemented to help combat hypoglycemia. Restricted exercise in active dogs is also recommended.

Sometimes, upon surgery it is determined surgical removal is not possible. Then, medical management alone takes place.

Survival time is generally about a year when surgery and treatment are given. Otherwise, it is dependent on how quickly this was diagnosed, how far along symptoms are and what spreading has occurred. Chemotherapy has shown no real promise in fighting this malignancy.

Christine, LVT

Demodectic mange, most commonly referred to as ‘demodex’, ‘red mange’ or ‘puppy mange’, is most often noticed by hair loss around the eyes, muzzle, and/or forelegs, and most often in pups 3-6 months of age.

 Demodex are mites that are transferred to pups within the first week of life by their mothers. These mites can only live on the skin, and do not live in the environment. They sometimes cause a crusty lesion look to the skin, but not always, and in some, secondary infections can occur.

Demodectic mange live on practically every dog, without causing any harm or symptoms. It is the dogs with weakened immune systems, mostly puppies, who can have a problem. The mites themselves are not visible, but a simple skin scraping by your vet can verify whether these mites are living in the hair follicles of your pup.

Most dogs can fight this infestation themselves in small cases, though it takes time for their immune system to strengthen. In harsher cases and weak dogs, treatment is recommended. Medicated dips can be done by your vet, as well as oral and topical medication to help fight these off. A few dogs can become ill from the effects of the mites. If you notice this type of hair loss in your pup, it’s best to have it checked out to get started on treatments sooner than later.

Christine, LVT

Parvo is a virus that is seen much more in puppies than in adult dogs. This virus rapidly grows and attacks cells that make up the intestinal lining, causing diarrhea which more often than not is quite bloody. This attack on the intestines also causes a lacking ability to absorb nutrients and fluids.

Symptoms, besides diarrhea can include fevers, weakness, loss of appetite, and vomiting. In many sad cases, the dehydration that ensues leads to shock, which then leads to death.

The diarrhea has a particularly foul odor, and is often yellow in color. The environment containing parvo is best cleaned with chlorine bleach, diluted 1 oz per 1 qt of water.

Parvo virus can also attack heart muscle cells, which can cause sudden death. It is also a hardy virus, lasting in the environment for 6 to 9 months or more. It takes about 7 to 10 days between the time a dog is exposed to the virus and when they come down with symptoms and will test positive. Parvo is dog-specific and cannot be spread to other species.

Intense treatment is required to fight Parvo. There is no cure, but symptoms must be aggressively tended to, with great attention to nursing care, keeping hydrated (IV fluids is best), and keeping nutrients in the system. Some require blood transfusions.

Any young pup with diarrhea should seek medical attention quickly. If they can make it through the first 3-4 days with treatment, they often make a rapid recovery. Without medical intervention, over 80% will die.

Christine, LVT

Ringworm is a fungal infection that can affect the hair, nails and/or skin of cats, dogs, and humans. In humans, ringworm usually looks like a ring-like lesion, but this is not always the case in pets.

 In most animals, ringworm is fairly self-limiting, meaning it will heal itself in time. However, in animals with compromised immune systems, particularly cats under 1 year of age, outbreaks can become severe. Spores from infected animals can be shed into the environment and live for over a year and a half!

Typical ringworm symptoms to look for would be small roundish lesions with no hair, sometimes itchy and irritated looking, other times not. It may have a small scabby center. Ringworm is most commonly found at the head, ears and tail, but can be spread to anywhere on the body.

The most reliable way for your vet to diagnose ringworm is with a culture. When it is suspected, topical treatment can begin while waiting for culture results, as most vets are fairly certain as to the diagnosis when they see this. Limiting your ringworm-positive pet to a confined area which you clean well with diluted bleach will save you a lot of trouble in the long run in keeping the infection contained. Wearing loves to help prevent infection to yourself and contamination to other areas of the household is also strongly recommended.

Christine, LVT

Making the decision to work with animals may seem like an easy thing, but it really isn’t. First, the pay in most animal related fields is zilch; second, it’s a difficult field to get into when experience is lacking, and it can be difficult to obtain that experience when no one wants a newbie hired!

It was especially difficult for me to get into this field. I already had a well paid business job (which I hated). I knew what animal jobs were out there but I lacked the formal education in it to get something that would pay my bills. So I did something that changed my life forever: I started volunteering at my local animal shelter.

I did this for a few years before it really sunk in that I had a knack for aiding their health and well being, both medically and emotionally. I enrolled part time at the closest veterinary technology program, which was an hour away and offering classes right smack in the middle of the day to inconvenience everyone. Once I had that under my belt, I was able to switch jobs to an entry veterinary assistant, making peanuts and barely keeping my head above water. But I loved it. I stayed with the shelter as well.

My bachelor’s in veterinary technology took me quite some time to finish despite already having had a college degree, since I had to go part time, couldn’t work enough hours or for enough pay to help me pay it, and even being homeless here and there while doing this. It was the biggest undertaking of my life, and I’m not convinced  could go through it again. But I’m so glad I got through, got my professional license, and worked hard enough and made enough connections to be at the level of medicine I am at now; I’m hoping that where I am now is where I finish off my career, and the changes in the respect and pay in the field has finally been on the upward trend. I can pay my bills now

Nothing gives me greater satisfaction than talking about this field with people and explaining the pros and cons, and why it may not be for everyone. There is always something out there you can do with animals, medicine is just one small part of it. If you’re thinking of going off to college for this, want to start out in an animal shelter, wondering what variety exists in this field, or have other questions about doing what I’ve done, don’t hesitate to comment me, I will (eventually) get back to you on it. The field of veterinary medicine can always use more animal lovers!

Christine, LVT

Declawing is never an easy decision, and it is a very heated subject. Only you can make the decision, but I hope I can shed some information on the situation to help you with that decision.

First, if one is to declaw, it is most commonly done at the time of spay/neuter, which is most commonly done at 6 months of age. Once they get to a year old and beyond, healing from declawing becomes more dramatic, as the younger cats have a better healing time and learn to adjust without their claws quicker.

While it is more painful the older they get, it is still a painful procedure. I would speak to the vet or a licensed technician about sufficient pain medications that will be used during and after surgery in order to help combat this.

As for whether to do it or not, that is the main question here. I will post you some links so you can read about exactly what a declaw is, for it does involve not just removing claws but removing an entire joint, like if we were to have the last segment of our fingers removed. There are complications which can occur. They are not common, and tend to occur more in older or overweight cats, but they do exist. 

My suggestion to anyone would be to try “soft paws” before considering declawing. If you place a call to your vet today, you can find out if they carry these, and if not, you can pick some up at any pet supply store and bring them with you for your vet to apply them. At a young age, most cats easily adjust to these ‘caps’ on their nails and cannot destroy furniture nor hurt you with their nails. They can stay on for a few weeks, then as the nail grows, they pop off and new ones get reapplied. Generally the technician or vet staff can help you apply new ones if you have difficulty doing this at home, though it is quite simple to learn. Getting your kitties used to having their feet handled will be important in this step.

Declawing, while it’s nice to get it done young and while under anesthesia for their spay/neuters, can be done at a later stage, though as stated earlier, the younger, the better in healing. Going through the severity of the declaw would be much more of a behavioral problem to deal with once older for most cats, and if not necessary, would be great to avoid this amputation.

Here is some information (objective) on declawing:

http://www.acvs.org/AnimalOwners/HealthConditions/SmallAnimalTopics/DeclawinginCats/

http://www.thepetcenter.com/sur/catdc.html

http://petcare.suite101.com/article.cfm/cat_declaw_procedure

Christine, LVT

Few things seem as frustrating to owners of sick pets than trying to give them an oral medication. Same goes for us technicians in the hospital. Pill pockets have often been a ‘life saver’- both theirs and ours!

Pill pockes, for those unfamiliar, are treats that come in various flavors for either dogs or cats, that have a carved out area in which to place a pill and then squeeze the treat so that the medication becomes enclosed within that treat. Indeed, some dogs and cats will either not like the treat or will pick up on the fact that a pill is inside. However, in my experience in the hospital, many many more animals, cats and dogs alike, will eat the pill pocket with the pill enclosed much easier than trying to hide it in canned foods or even table scraps (where the pill often falls out). Nothing makes me happier during treatment time than an angry cat who likes her pill pocket… that is much more preferable to me than pissing her off further to force a pill down her throat!

Pill pockets are sold to the public as well as hospitals. Less messy, easier, and an overall A+ from me… I’ve included a link on this page for anyone interested in checking them out.

Christine, LVT

Perhaps some good news exists in the search for calming products for anxious dogs. A semi-new pheromone releasing item exists in the form of a wearable collar.

Now, I’ll be the first to admit I have no first hand experience with these. I’m tempted to try it, as I own am anxious type of dog with whom this product may be beneficial in less-than-severe situations for him.

I am a big fan of the diffusers. Although obviously something like this won’t be a cure for traumatized dogs and those with severe behavioral issues, I do think for the overly sensitive dogs, these are a big help. The feedback I have received from clients on these collars are that they work best in conjunction with the diffusers.

Any readers using this product? Comments about them?

Christine, LVT

If paintball ingestion is ever a possibility with your dog, it is critical for you to find where the nearest emergency vet as soon as possibile. Although they claim to be ‘non-toxic’, that is in reference to humans, not dogs. They are indeed toxic to dogs and there is usually no way of knowing how much was ingested. If you call your regular vet, usually a message is left on the machine with what to do in an emergency and where to go if they are not open. Also, yellow pages are helpful in locating an emergency vet facility.

 The vet will need to do bloodwork and if he/she also feels paintball ingestion is possible, or if you know it occured, IV fluid therapy as well as activated charcoal to absorb remaining toxins in the GI will be administered. It is very important to get this done right away when toxic substances have been in the body for some time and symptoms have appeared of discomfort. While I realize emergency vets are often further away and more expensive, it can be critical to saving your dog. For financial assistance, you can apply for care credit at the office, which is a low to no interest credit card used in unforeseen situations like this.

http://www.carecredit.com

More info on paintball toxicity:

http://www.petplace.com/dogs/paint-ball-toxicity/page1.aspx

Christine, LVT

Orange stool is not a normal finding, but not necessarily something to be extremely worried about at first. Feces turns shades of brown when it interacts with bile salts in the digestive tract. This could mean an absorption problem. If orange stools continued along with weight loss, that would be something to look into. Other symptoms of illness would definitely show up, as reasons for this to occur include things like diarrhea (moving too fast through the system to absorb enough), irritable bowel syndrome, or gallbladder blockages (which are also painful).

Stools can also be orange due to changes in diet. Certain table scraps or treats can cause this temporary problem, as can some supplements or medications. Certain foods that are orange may also cause this issue.

If any other symptoms coincide, I would have the dog looked at; if these orange stools only persist due to diarrhea but the dog is feeling well otherwise, then you can try to treat the diarrhea at home.

This is generally done by fasting from food for 12 hours, but allowing water if the pet will drink. (If not, they can always be offered some unflavored pedialyte or ensure to keep electrolytes in balance). Then when you do feed, give a bland diet like boiled chicken or boiled hamburger meat with white rice (1:1 ratio) for dogs, or baby food (chicken flavor) for cats and very small dogs. No treats, and don’t let them eat grass either. Continue this diet for a couple of days as the stool firms up. Once firmed up, gradually go back to the regular diet over the course of a few meals.

Christine, LVT

I wish there were some OTC cold remedies for cats, but unfortunately the cat’s liver, which metabolizes the majority of medications, cannot metabolize any cold/flu medications that we can buy from our pharmacy. Instead, they are toxic and can even kill them in small doses.

It’s common for kittens to get upper respiratory infections and “cold” viruses that are not the same as the cold we get (so you cannot catch this from your kitten); your vet will have to prescribe your kitten some prescription antibiotics to help your kitty get through this without further damage and illness. Adults cats, too, can get URIs. It’s more common amongst multi-cat households, and is often contagious between them.

At home, you could make it easier for her breathing if you have a nebulizer to use on her, or having her in the bathroom when you shower for the hot steam in the air to help clear up some congestion. But without antibiotics, she’s likely to get sicker. It can lead to pneumonia.

Christine, LVT

Who the Heck Are All These People?

Working in a large hospital that boasts emergency, specialty and general practices, it may seem easy to get overwhelmed upon entering for your first visit. Even the most organized large facility is going to be fairly packed with a large number of staff members. These organized hospitals, however, will do there best to try to point out to you who’s who, and I’d like to try and explain the differences in the basic positions so you may know where to go if and when you enter one of these places. I can only speak for the practices I’ve worked in, of course.

For starters, you have your receptionist/ front office staff. They are almost always the first people you see, especially if you have an appointment, or walk in on a not-as-critical emergency. These people do not only schedule your appointments, welcome you,, attend to your bill and pull your chart- they are also a critical player in keeping the flow of the hospital going. They are trained to be able to answer your questions- or at least know who to get so that you can have your answers. They often deal with the most abuse or stress from clients- not necessarily on purpose- but the biggest problems encountered on a daily basis are people upset with their bills, people upset their pet isn’t doing well and unsure why when they walk in, and people who feel they can talk down to the front office staff even when they won’t to the licensed personnel. Contrary to most people’s conceptions, these staff members are one of our most important, deserving the most respect: they give you your first impression of our hospital, and their ‘attitude’ is what can make or break us. A good front office staff member deals with the daily stress and is still able to put a smile on and help you and the next client. There is always a manager or head of the office you can speak to when needed.

The assistants are the ones you may see running by to quickly clean up a puppy pee in the front, or carry up your large bag of food despite weighing only 110 lbs themselves, or putting all they have into calming and holding onto your aggressive 140 lb Dane or aggressive feral cat who needs his head still for an eye pressure check by the doctor. The get the most ‘beat up‘- they often get paid the least- and they are there to set up all our procedures, hold our patients, help you to your car with your supplies, and in the process, still doing their best to learn medicine. A good assistant is irreplaceable- and they do it for their love of animals. Many of ours are in tech or vet school- and deal with daily bruises and minimum recognition because they love what they do- I couldn’t speak enough about how appreciated they truly are to the doctors and techs.

Technicians in the best facilities and in states requiring such are licensed. I myself have my bachelor’s in Veterinary technology and pre-vet medicine with countless continuing education hours. We are not usually trying to be vets- some start this way- but most know they’d rather do the hands-on work than the theory behind it. With the education, we understand disease processes, surgeries and injuries, and utilize that knowledge to be responsible for all diagnostic testing, monitoring of patient care and status, and education to the client. We are the ones who admit your animals and then bring them back to you when picked up, who explain your medications to you, who are put on the phone when you aren’t sure you’re dealing with an emergency, who run out to get your pet when a life threatening problem is occurring, and who do cpr, anesthesia, intubation, medicating, injecting and so forth to save your pet. We go by your permission to save and the doctor’s orders to use certain things, and we go… sometimes it’s like being in a bubble with the amount going on at once- but a large hospital that has techs who work well together and with the doctor is an unbelievable feeling. It’s quite a rush at times. And we still then care for the lesser emergent cases with the same care and love for the patient. A day filled with just about anything: from making sure they live through their anesthesia during their liver shunt surgery, to helping them take their first steps after an amputation, to watching their progress and medicating every hour to give them a chance at life through their heart failure or bleeding disorder, to teaching them its ok for us to touch your paws for your first puppy or kitten nail trim! We go to work never knowing what we’ll see for the day- but its always a wide mixture.

The vets, of course, speak to you in the appointments, physically examine the animal and decide what treatment or diagnostics are needed, utilize their education and expertise to determine what needs to be ruled out and what is most likely going on, and take a chance with each and every patient that they are correct in what they choose. It’s a lot of pressure, but with the support of the entire staff working together, things can be made easier for the doctor to concentrate on their job only so that you get your pet back as healthy and happy as possible.

Christine, LVT

Cats are pregnant for approximately 65 days.

Signs that your cat is pregnant: Her mammary glands get bigger, her abdomen gradually starts getting bigger, and she may act hungrier, needier, or even slightly lethargic by about day 30 post-conception.

At this point, you could always find out for sure by having an ultrasound done to see the heartbeats. Or at about 45 days post-conception (sometimes sooner), you should be able to define how many kittens there are by seeing their skeletons on x-ray.

If she’s pregnant, you want to get her on a higher protein food (like kitten food) and increase the amount she eats, as this higher protein will help nourish the kittens as well as her. Continue this even while she’s nursing.

Birth happens normally around day 65, but a cat can give birth anywhere from day 59-70.

Make sure the cat has a safe, warm area to deliver her kittens.

Christine, LVT

“Pepto Bismol”, aka Bismulth subsalicylate, is a human over the counter medicine used most frequently for diarrhea. Back in the day, it was an at-home treatment of choice for some dog owners as well.

Here’s the problem: most formulations of this drug (including many Kaopectate products) contain salicylates, which is the ingredient in aspirin. While aspirin itself has been used in veterinary medicine, it is NOT a smart choice for dogs suffering stomach or intestinal upset. Also, it can be quite toxic to cats.

Dogs who have diarrhea are having a problem with their intestinal transit time: meaning things are going through very quickly. They often have a build up of stomach and intestinal enzymes. The acidity they are experiencing leaves them vulnerable to ulceration, which happens to be a side effect of aspirin. This can further potentiate an ulcer, cause hemorraghing, or even cause vomiting to an already hurting GI. And for vomiting itself- the choice of pepto is fairly rediculous.

Instead, if all else is going well and your vet agrees with it, the OTC diarrhea drug of choice would be loperamide (Immodium, or the newer “Pepto Diarrhea Control”).  Dosing is nowhere near what you’d give a human of any age and must be decreased to tiny amounts throughout the day, so always check with your vet before giving your dog. And for safety, because a cat’s metabolism is so different, avoid all of these in cats unless specifically prescribed.

Christine, LVT