dogs&cats&more

Making the decision to work with animals may seem like an easy thing, but it really isn’t. First, the pay in most animal related fields is zilch; second, it’s a difficult field to get into when experience is lacking, and it can be difficult to obtain that experience when no one wants a newbie hired!

It was especially difficult for me to get into this field. I already had a well paid business job (which I hated). I knew what animal jobs were out there but I lacked the formal education in it to get something that would pay my bills. So I did something that changed my life forever: I started volunteering at my local animal shelter.

I did this for a few years before it really sunk in that I had a knack for aiding their health and well being, both medically and emotionally. I enrolled part time at the closest veterinary technology program, which was an hour away and offering classes right smack in the middle of the day to inconvenience everyone. Once I had that under my belt, I was able to switch jobs to an entry veterinary assistant, making peanuts and barely keeping my head above water. But I loved it. I stayed with the shelter as well.

My bachelor’s in veterinary technology took me quite some time to finish despite already having had a college degree, since I had to go part time, couldn’t work enough hours or for enough pay to help me pay it, and even being homeless here and there while doing this. It was the biggest undertaking of my life, and I’m not convinced  could go through it again. But I’m so glad I got through, got my professional license, and worked hard enough and made enough connections to be at the level of medicine I am at now; I’m hoping that where I am now is where I finish off my career, and the changes in the respect and pay in the field has finally been on the upward trend. I can pay my bills now

Nothing gives me greater satisfaction than talking about this field with people and explaining the pros and cons, and why it may not be for everyone. There is always something out there you can do with animals, medicine is just one small part of it. If you’re thinking of going off to college for this, want to start out in an animal shelter, wondering what variety exists in this field, or have other questions about doing what I’ve done, don’t hesitate to comment me, I will (eventually) get back to you on it. The field of veterinary medicine can always use more animal lovers!

Christine, LVT

Euthanasia is obviously a touchy, emotional topic. Some people don’t believe in it. Others just can’t bring themselves to make that decision. And yet others just need that helping hand to get them through it.

As a vet tech, obviously I am exposed to it much more often than the average pet owner. I not only deal with it in my own pets when it is time, but working in an extremely large hospital, am faced with it in others’ pets quite often. Because it is seen often, and because I truly believe euthanasia is a humane, loving way to end our pets’ suffering, I indeed do not suffer the same shock as some owners do. Yet, that doesn’t ever make it ‘easy’ for me or any other staff member.

Each one hurts us, too. In fact, veterinarians and technicians alike tend to suffer more burn out in this field than in most jobs. It’s an emotional field to work in. It is not exactly professional for us to break down crying for each pet, and we try to keep in our minds that this is the right thing, but we see the owner’s suffering, we see the bond- whether it’s your first and last visit in one, whether this was something unexpected when you pulled in, or whether you made this appointment last week. We can see it in your face, hear it in your voice- we know how it feels because we love our pets so dearly and know how strong your bond is with your loved pet- each and every single euthanasia is a heartbreak for us, and we feel your pains.

I rarely have the right words. “I’m sorry” is all I can usually come out with, but I always hope that animal’s owner knows that they are not alone and that we understand. When you tell us it is the right thing to do, it IS the right thing to do. You know your pet better than anyone. And for that, we respect your decisions and feel for you and your pet.

When we send out sympathy cards, I again often say the same thing. I will remark on one aspect of that animal that touched me and made an impact in my life, as every single patient has, and will say that “I hope your sadness soon turns to happy memories spent with your loved one”. And even though I write it to each one,  truly mean it. To me, that is when suffering ends, we can enjoy the fact we loved that pet and made their life special, and we can smile thinking of something loving, funny, or enjoyable we did with them. I deeply hope that time comes from each pet loss as soon as possible.

Euthanasia isn’t easy on anyone involved. Don’t ever think we aren’t there for you…. we are.

Christine, LVT

AVERAGE VITAL SIGNS:

DOG (adult):

Heart rate: 70 - 160 (dependent on breed, smaller dogs usually higher end, larger- lower end)

Resting respiratory rate: 16-40

Body temperature: 99.5 - 102.5

CAT:

Heart rate: 130-200

Resting respiratory rate: 20-40

Body temperature: 100.0 - 102.5

FERRET:

Heart rate: 200-350

Resting respiratory rate: 30-40

Body temperature: 100.0 - 103.5

HORSE:

Heart rate: 25-45

Resting respiratory rate: 8-16

Body temperature: 99.5- 101.4

HAMSTER:

Heart rate: 310-480

Resting respiratory rate: 40-110

Body temperature: about 102

RABBIT:

Heart rate: 150-300

Resting respiratory rate: 30-60

Body temperature: 101-103

RAT:

Heart rate: 300-500

Resting respiratory rate: 70-140

Body temperature: 99.5-101.5

GUINEA PIG:

Heart rate: 240-310

Resting respiratory rate: 50-130

Body temperature: about 103

SUGAR GLIDER:

Heart rate: 200-300

Resting respiratory rate: 16-40

Body temperature: 96.5-98.0

The clear outer capsule of the front of the eye is termed the cornea. Instead of having blood vessels, it sits in a nourishing protective fluid of tears.

The cornea is subject to scratches, abrasions and ulcerations. The most common cause of ulcerations is a lack of protective tears, but can also be caused by bacterial and fungal infections. Older dogs, persian cats, and adult cats that have the herpes virus are all prone to corneal ulcers. Left untreated, serious complications can occur which destroy vision.

Ulcers can be shallow or deep. Once the cornea has been torn, it becomes irritated and painful, causing tearing and squinting. They also itch. In response, animals will try to rub their eye, worsening the condition. Once a lot of the cornea has eroded away, a bulge will form (called a descemetocele). Once this bulge bursts, the anterior portion of the eye will collapse, contents spill out and the eye is destroyed.

Superficial ulcers can heal in a few days with proper treatment, while deep ones may take weeks of fairly intense treatments. They may also leave a scar. When there are underlying issues for the ulcer, some refuse to heal or come right back after healing.

Your vet can stain the eye to detect the depth of an ulcer. There is also a tear test that should be done to determine if an adequate amount of tears are in the eye, as a lack of tear flow is a cause of ulcers. You’ll probably notice this condition is much more frequent in pets with genetically bulging eyes, like boston terriers, boxers, pugs, lhasas, chihuahuas, persians, himalayans, etc. These breeds and others as well can also have misplaced eyelashes due to the bulge, thus scratching at the cornea continually, causing this issue.

Any time there is a problem with the eye it is recommended to see a vet quickly. Problems with the cornea can heal quicker and cause less pain, and complications with scarring and vision can thus be avoided.

Christine, LVT

Cracked paw pads are a fairly common occurrence in dogs. in most cases, the problem is just due to excessive walking on rough surfaces and is not severe enough to warrant a vet visit (bleeding, deep cracks and real pain are indeed signs a vet visit is needed for this). 

I would start treating at home by soaking the paws in a chlorhexidine or betadine (iodine) solution diluted 1 part to 10 parts water. This will help soothe the pads and disinfect any debris which has entered. Pat gently dry and when completely dry, there is a product you can find in most pet supply stores and pet stores called bag balm which is used for exactly this purpose of cracked, ripped, torn, and raw pads. It was first used on farm animal hooves but worked so well on dog pads it is used widely for this purpose now. I’ve included a link here for you to see what it looks like:

http://www.bagbalm.com/

If you can’t get this right away, Vaseline will be helpful, but bag balm is thicker and will work faster for this. I would definitely apply some booties to your dog’s feet for walks and keep your dog rested as much as possible the next few days and off his/ her feet as much as possible for best healing if this cracking was severe. If needed for any ‘painful’ walking, you could always apply a soft, loose padded bandage to the foot just for outdoor walks, but take off when not walking so the foot doesn’t swell.

Christine, LVT

So, your pet has been seen by a vet recently but needs a refill on the prescription, or maybe is just having a recurring issue which was treated well in the past with a certain medication. Do you really need a vet visit and all of its associated costs? Not necessarily. 

Being a prescription item, it is only legal to get the prescription as well as refills from the veterinarian who has examined and diagnosed your pet. However, what you can do is use online pharmacies, of which there are several. What you need to do is just call your vet instead of making the appointment and let them know you need a prescription for the refill either faxed directly to the company or to you to have it sent from where you order, or speak to your vet directly and tell them the problem at hand if you’ve been seen recently, and they can let you know if an exam is necessary again.

Online pharmacies are quite convenient for many people who do not want to travel to get their meds, and can many times (though not always) be cheaper.

Here are just a sampling of online pet pharmacies:

http://www.petcarerx.com/PCRX/Default.aspx?upi=0&company=Overture+Free+Shipping&id=1448

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Shop.cfm?ref=4180&subref=AA&s_kwcid=TC-2758-22783724521-S-3408456021&c=9547

http://www.nationalpetpharmacy.com/store/default.asp?AffiliateCode=PFNPP01&mscssid=G6NKFXLSQU7V8GCMEH6WP1PN7BH3D1S0

http://www.1800petmeds.com/

Christine, LVT

Any open wound which is deep, bothers the animal, or doesn’t start healing immediately should be checked by a vet, as oral antibiotics may be necessary for proper healing.

That said, at home, you definitely want to keep any open wounds disinfected and clean while healing. The worst thing would be for a wound to close up on itself prematurely while healing and causing an abscess (which is a pus filled ‘lump‘).

I would suggest getting some chlorhexidine or betadine (iodine) solution from any pharmacy and making a 1 part solution to 10 parts warm water mix. Gently but thoroughly clean out an open wound, 2-3 times daily, using the solution on a clean cotton ball, washcloth or gauze for very superficial scratches, and squirting the solution mix into wounds with a syringe for those wounds which run a little deeper or wider.

After gently patting dry, you can apply a thin strip of Neosporin or other human antibiotic ointment to very topical, superficial wounds. Just a thin strip will do, enough to absorb into the wound but not too much as to coat the area and not let air in at it to help heal. For slightly deeper wounds, do not apply any ointments, which only cover it and impede the air getting at it to help it heal. Do try to keep all open wounds clean as best as possible.

If any wound starts to bother your pet, you may need an e-collar to prevent scratching or licking at it and causing further harm.

Christine, LVT