dogs&cats&more

A common problem amongst ferrets is hair loss. When seen in conjunction with weight loss, the problem can be even more serious that you may think. When you see signs of this, you will want to get to a ferret friendly vet soon. The most common reason for hair loss with weight loss in a ferret is adrenal disease (Cushing’s disease). Usually this is caused by one adrenal gland which can be removed (surgery) and the problem cured. Sometimes you’ll even noticed an enlarged vulva with this disease, because this part of the adrenal gland that becomes affected is responsible for releasing the sex hormones.

If the skin is dry or scabby, and weight loss is not severe, chances are a bit higher that the cause were parasite related (mange, ringworm or other fungus, or fleas).

If all checks out with blood work from the vet, things to consider at home are diet and lighting, which also affect a ferret’s coat and shedding patterns. However, these would not cause itching, and weight loss because of diet is associated with malnutrition which I’m sure you’d be aware of yourself, so best bet is to get to a vet, have the bloodwork done, and discuss options for treating adrenal disease if this is indeed the cause.

Christine, LVT

At times, we see female spaying incontinence, which is an unfortunate ad side effect to spaying some dogs at times, and most often seen in those spayed at a very young age (under 5 months) but not seen until they hit about 5-6 yrs of age. It is not common, but not extremely uncommon. I have personally seen this condition more in large breed dogs (mostly Dobies, although there is no medical reasoning behind this).

Female incontinence from spaying is treatable, in better news. Generally, a drug called PPA (phenylpropanolamine, aka Proin) is used and works wonders at controlling this urinating, increasing the muscles of the urinary bladder so it won’t release when the dog is relaxed (like when sleeping!) In the rare cases where this doesn’t help, the vet tries an estrogen hormone, and in even rarer cases, both drugs together will work. Because the urine comes out quickly after entering the bladder, it tends to be dilute and thus no smell or color to it in most cases. But it is urine. It is best to not put off treating this condition for too long, as more muscle weakness occurs the longer you wait, making the problem harder to manage.

Christine, LVT

Chin acne occurs when constant bacteria in the area gets trapped under the skin and causes a “pus-pocket”, which grows, looks like a little pimples, and sometimes they burst, making a bit of a mess. Other times they appear scabby. This can be a vicious cycle.

If you are seeing what appears to be chinacne on your pet, I would suggest getting some chlorhexiderm or betadine (iodine) from the pharmacy and making a 1 part solution to 10 parts warm water mix. Gently but thoroughly clean out this area very well, 2-3 times daily. Keep this pus area clean and open while healing up.

Chin acne is most often caused from the bacteria in the food and water bowls. Plastic bowls are the worst for trapping it, and your best bet is to use stainless steel bowls. Disinfect the bowls daily as well (plastic cannot be disinfected completely, not even in a dishwasher). While ceramic bowls are sometimes ok in minor outbreaks of chin acne, others report still having a problem with them as well in more sensitive animals.

There are indeed other skin conditions which can appear quite similar to chin acne, so if not clearing up after trying this, or at any time worsening, you do want to have your pet checked out.

Christine, LVT

 To correctly put a pressure bandage on, the most important thing to remember is that the tightness of the bandage remains at the bottom (toes) part of the bandage, and gets just a bit looser and looser as you wrap up the foot.

The perfect bandage would go like this:

A small telfa pad (non-stick pad) just to cover the cut or bleeding area, so when the bandage comes off, it doesn’t rip at the wound.

After the telfa is placed (you have to hold it there), a piece of (non-waterproof) tape goes down the length of the leg and beyond it by about 3 inches for a large dog, 1 1/2to 2 inches for smaller dogs and cats. Let this excess length off the feet hang there for now. This is your “stir-up”.

Take soft rolled bandage material and start wrapping from the very bottom of the feet; it’ll look awkward at first to cover the toes. Make it very snug at the very bottom. You want to be able to see (uncovered) the 2 ‘middle’ toes. As it rolls up even just a bit, it gets looser. The problem with bandages is when people make it looser at the bottom and then tight further up. This is what causes edema/swelling and fluid build up in the feet.

Roll this all the way up to just below the elbow part of the leg. Then, used rolled gauze/ cling wrap, starting at the very bottom once again, and roll around and up, same way as with the softer bandaging.

Once that is done, take that excess piece of tape hanging (and covered on the leg part by bandage) and fold it up and tape it onto the bandage. This keeps the bandage from slipping. You can now use vet wrap, or ace bandage or whatever else you have to cover this bandage and make it look “nicer”. If it is something clingy, remember same system as above. Remember with each layer you want to keep seeing those 2 toe ends and nails.

Bandages shouldn’t last more than a couple of days. The toes should be checked several times throughout the day, and if they look ‘separated’ or nails look ‘out of place’ this is a sign your bandage is too tight and needs to be taken off or redone.

Christine, LVT

  Hot spots are more common in dogs with thicker undercoats in which dampness can accumulate, but can occur in any dog. If you notice a localized area of your dog’s skin which is inflammed and itchy, and the hair around it is looking moist, it’s possible this is a hot spot. I would keep this area clean of hair and debris, disinfected, and less itchy/ spreadable.

If you need to, clip a bit of hair nearby so it doesn’t fall into this area.

I’d gently clean the spot with a betadine (iodine) diluted 1 part to 10 parts warm water. Gently dab dry. If you can get a topical antihistamine or hydrocortisone cream (they do sell some OTC in human pharmacies), this can be applied, just a thin layer. A topical antibiotic cream, like Neosporin, is ok for infected sores and warding off bacterial infections, but does nothing for the itch of the spot nor the inflammatory process and histamine release, which is what causes these.

Many people also choose to give some oral diphenhydramine (benadryl) at a dose of 1mg per pound of body weight, which can be rounded slightly up or down for easier dosing, but it may cause some drowsiness in sensitive dogs, though no need to worry if it does. It can be repeated every 12 hours. Only give to otherwise healthy dogs with no medication problems in the past.

Allergies are a common reason for hot spots to occur, and the moisture build up on skin is what eventually causes this spot that turns itchy and inflamed.

You will want to do your best to keep your dog in a drier area, and a t-shirt or e-collar may be needed to prevent them further self-irritating this spot while it’s healing.

Christine, LVT

One of the biggest  problems we hear from cat owners is inappropriate urination and straining to urinate. 

Though inappropriate elimination can sometimes be territorial/ behavioral/ stress, often this problem is due to a urinary tract infection. The bacteria causes inflammation in the bladder, which triggers a signal to the brain that the cat needs to urinate with a full bladder, even though technically the bladder has not had enough time to fill up. Therefore, we start seeing frequent urination in tiny amounts. The cat will often associate their litter box with the irritation/ discomfort they are feeling, and then choose to urinate elsewhere instead in an attempt to avoid the discomfort.

A urinary tract infection can often easily be treated with a round of antibiotics, but it is not something to put off treating for too long, as it is very uncomfortable for the cat and can eventually lead to either kidney infections or chronic cystitis.

Your vet will want to check a fresh urine sample to determine which type of bacteria is causing this and if crystals or casts are present, then choose the proper antibiotic for curing. Crystals in time will start to form stones.

If seeing this problem, definitely make sure your cat is able to produce and let out urine each time squatting. The situation is much different with a male cat than with a dog or even female cat when this occurs. That is because the male cat’s urethra (the ‘tubing’ which carries urine from the bladder and out of the body) is extremely thin, and the crystals get stuck in the urethra easily and block the bladder from emptying. This is a dire emergency situation, requiring an emergency vet A.S.A.P. It is lethal if not treated quickly- as the bladder continues to fill with urine and will eventually rupture. The abdomen becomes painful as this occurs.

Once a cat is blocked, unfortunately there is nothing you can do at home: the only way to help a blocked cat is by having the cat sedated, catheterized, and professionally “flushed” to get this unblocked; then the catheter needs to remain in place while the crystals are treated and dissolved so the cat can urinate on his own again. Often in cats who have a tendency to have a change in urine pH and therefore more susceptible to UTIs and blocking, we recommend a diet change or supplements to help keep the urine pH at a less compatible level for crystal formation.

Christine, LVT

Bee stings can be just as dangerous in our dogs as they can be in us. Some dogs are severely allergic as well, and multiple bee stings in any dog can cause a fatal allergic reaction if not treated quickly. 

If your dog gets stung by a bee, you can start by giving ‘diphenhydramine’ aka Benadryl at a dose of 1 mg per pound of body weight (can be rounded up a bit if needed for easier dosing, but no more than 2mg per pound, may cause drowsiness at any dose). Meaning a 25 lb dog would get 25 mg of Benadryl (which is usually 1 capsule, but that info is on the front of the Benadryl box).

Capsules are much easier than liquid if you have it, and it can be repeated again in 8 hours if needed. Any swelling that has developed should start subsiding within 1/2 hr. Check for signs of hives appearing or difficulty breathing, and if these occur even after benadryl has been given, you’ll need a vet visit for injectable, fast acting and longer lasting prescription treatment. If difficulty breathing has started, a vet trip a.s.a.p. is a must- the airways are swelling and closing up and can result in death.

If you can find the bee stinger, definitely remove it with tweezers, but it’s best to treat symptoms as well. Do know not all bees have stingers, but the ones who do tend to have barbed stingers which should be noticeable if it hasn’t fallen out.

After treatment, it is best to keep a good eye on your dog for the next few hours.

Christine, LVT

Some people don’t notice right away that their pet has a white, hazy membrane that sometimes comes out and covers part or all of the eye. This is called the nictating membrane, also known as the 3rd eyelid. It is normal to appear from time to time, usually when your pet is tired or resting.

If you start to notice it more often that usual, it could be due to illness; just about anything making an animal lethargic or not quite right can make their 3rd eyelid appear. If the eyes look fine otherwise, it likely has nothing to do with an eye problem, and could be that your pet is just feeling a bit under the weather. Your best bet at that time would be to try and keep a better eye on him or her if at all possible, and look for other symptoms of what could be bothering them: sneezing, coughing, not eating as well, discharges or resting more. Without other symptoms and if it goes away quickly, I wouldn’t worry about it, unless these membranes continue to come out and cover the eyes more and more- which could be a prolapse of the membranes, requiring a veterinary ophthalmologist for best treatment.

Christine, LVT

Any open wound which is deep, bothers the animal, or doesn’t start healing immediately should be checked by a vet, as oral antibiotics may be necessary for proper healing.

That said, at home, you definitely want to keep any open wounds disinfected and clean while healing. The worst thing would be for a wound to close up on itself prematurely while healing and causing an abscess (which is a pus filled ‘lump‘).

I would suggest getting some chlorhexidine or betadine (iodine) solution from any pharmacy and making a 1 part solution to 10 parts warm water mix. Gently but thoroughly clean out an open wound, 2-3 times daily, using the solution on a clean cotton ball, washcloth or gauze for very superficial scratches, and squirting the solution mix into wounds with a syringe for those wounds which run a little deeper or wider.

After gently patting dry, you can apply a thin strip of Neosporin or other human antibiotic ointment to very topical, superficial wounds. Just a thin strip will do, enough to absorb into the wound but not too much as to coat the area and not let air in at it to help heal. For slightly deeper wounds, do not apply any ointments, which only cover it and impede the air getting at it to help it heal. Do try to keep all open wounds clean as best as possible.

If any wound starts to bother your pet, you may need an e-collar to prevent scratching or licking at it and causing further harm.

Christine, LVT

Tips:

Dogs pick up on their owners’ anxiety: choose a vet hospital you yourself feel comfortable with, then trust the staff in caring for your dog- they chose this field because they love animals.

Even the smallest dog should be on leash, halti or harness when entering the vet’s office. Remember that the dog does not know why he is there, and the experience can be quite frightening. The ‘fight or flight’ reaction in an anxious dog is strong- better to be safe and keep your pet safe, as well as those around you.

An owner’s first instinct when their dog is worried is to tell them that they are ‘good‘, pet them, or cuddle with them and pick them up to reassure them. What this does is positively reinforces their anxious behavior. Encourage confidence by praising their approach of the vet staff, ask the vet or tech to offer treats when appropriate, and carry their favorite treats or toy with you to the office to reward calmer, more confident behavior. Training your dog to this experience should be treated no differently than training your dog to sit and stay.

Socializing your dog to a scary vet visit takes time, and doesn’t start or stop at the office: the more you bring your dog to various places and handle him or her in a way similar to a vet doing their exam, the more your dog will get acquainted with the experience, thus allowing it when it is necessary. Get your dog used to being handled starting at home: hand feed tasty food while touching paws, muzzles, and ears. Praise them for calm behavior throughout.

For dogs who are fearful, trust the vet’s judgment in the use of a muzzle. Not only does this relax the staff’s handling of your dog, but your dog senses this change in comfort level and can become more relaxed themselves.

Letting everyone from the front office staff to the vet know upfront your dog is anxious is always helpful, as well. Most anxious dogs prefer not to be approached and pet over the head in stressful situations. Teaching your dog to ‘shake’ or ‘give paw’ instead helps keep their anxiety level down, trains them on what to do when nervous about an approaching stranger, and keeps scary hands lower than eye level which is less intimidating to the fearful pet.

Though not all vet appointments with your dog are bound to be good experiences in every aspect, do your best to keep it positive for them. If the noisy waiting room is too much for your dog, don’t hesitate to call ahead and let the office know your dog is anxious, and perhaps waiting outside or in a quieter area of the waiting room can be implemented.

Christine, LVT

  Many people get confused and think it is the fur which gives allergic people a problem, when in fact it is the dander produced by the skin on dogs which most people have allergic problems with. (As an example, one of the least ‘hypoallergenic’ dogs that causes most problems is the Boxer, who has no ‘fur’).

What are considered hypoallergenic dogs are those which produce less dander. There are no dogs which produce no dander, so some people may even have difficulty being around these types, but it may be easier to deal with in a not so severely affected person. The following breeds are examples of hypoallergenic dogs: (aka less allergen producing dogs):

Mexican hairless dog

the Chinese crested

poodles (all sizes)

Portuguese water dog

bichon frise

soft-coated wheaten terrier

coton du tulear

west highland terriers

kerry blue terriers

bedlington terriers

People with controlled allergies who are looking for a dog are suggested to find one of these breeds listed above. My own personal recommendation would be to find one via breed specific rescue, in which the world wide web is a fantastic resource. 

Christine, LVT

Cats and dogs can suffer from fevers just like people can. 

The only way to know for sure that your cat or dog has a fever is by taking a temperature with a thermometer. You can buy any rectal thermometer from a pharmacy or grocery store; the digital ones are best as they are quicker (usually 10 seconds or less), since many pets will wiggle and try to get away. Normal cat and dog temperatures range from about 100.0F to 102.5F (higher end for cats and small dogs, and when stressed out/nervous). Over 104 for extended time if not responding to your efforts to lower is an emergency requiring vet attention.Over 106 can induce seizuring and brain damage eventually.

You don’t want to give your cat Motrin, Tylenol, Excedrin, nor any aspirin type of medications- they are all toxic to cats as they do not have the liver function to properly metabolize these drugs. You want to avoid them in dogs as well. Although aspirin is something sometimes used in low doses for dogs, it is not a sufficient medication for a fever, especially one of unknown origin, and should be avoided without specific vet approval.

Animals with fevers often are lethargic, slow-moving, the insides of their ears feeling warmer than they usually do, and often their appetite is decreased. You want to offer plenty of cool water, even if you have to syringe a little bit at a time into the side (not back) of their mouth, and if running a fever, you can place washcloths or paper towels soaked in rubbing alcohol on the pads of the feet, let your cat or dog lie on a cool surface like tile as opposed to carpeting or bedding, and/or give a cool (NOT cold) water bath if your pet allows this without getting stressed, towel drying well afterwards. Most cats will not want this, and for those, should be avoided. You also don’t want to cool them down too quickly as this can send them into shock. A fan nearby, but not blowing directly on them, is also a good idea.

If no improvement by morning or gets any worse, you definitely want a vet. Often fevers are associated with infections or inflammations or even pain. The older the animal is, and if any other illness symptoms appear, a thorough physical exam is required.

Christine, LVT

 First, you want to avoid baths as much as possible. I would bathe once for now to see if you can help with any odor that may be occuring, and I would only use either Malaseb (available from your vet), chlorhexiderm shampoo, or a gentle oatmeal shampoo formulated for dogs/puppies. Once bathed, give your dog plenty of time for natural oils to build up.  (If odor returns quickly or never leaves, this is a skin infection and requires further vet treatment.)

If you use heartworm preventative from your vet, I would switch to revolution just to help in case this is parasite related (mange). And what will help the most with flakey, chalky skin is adding a fatty acid supplement to the feedings. I would start adding fish oil capsules (1 capsule per meal) and believe me, you will see a difference in the condition of the skin if there is no underlying medical reason. It takes time to become silky and healthy looking, but you should see improvement within 2 weeks.

If your dog has any other symptoms of problems (like weight changes, appetite changes, itchiness that is severe, or inflammations of the skin) then a thorough skin check with the vet is in order and possibly some bloodwork, as endocrine problems can cause issues with the skin as well.

Christine, LVT

Males have long, flowing fins and are brightly colored and attractive; this is what is almost always found in pet stores, as this is what most people want in a Betta. Those bright blue and red bettas you’re looking at? Yup- males.

Females on the other hand have short, stubby fins and are a much duller color. Often you have to special order females from pet stores, and rarely is this done by a non experienced non-breeding consumer.